Miami Art Basel Report for Vogue Greece.

A fashion project for charity

About the client:

The Concept:

My idea was to create a charity event for the client that combined fashion and design. We wanted to involve as many people as possible in order to spread the message on Amnesty International’s goals – all this, through a fun and creative process. I suggested the sale of three limited edition T-shirts, to be designed by graphic design students under the overall theme of “Human Rights.”

We would then organize a launching party to create publicity for the project, as well as inform the nation-wide media outlets on the concept. All profits from sales would be donated to Amnesty International.

Step 1: The participation

I contacted the graphic design students of Akto College, one the biggest colleges in Greece, and asked them to create designs with the theme of human rights. For this, I had to go to every class, explain the project to the students and try to motivate them to participate. Thankfully, they were as happy about this project as we were! Amnesty International selected two of the proposed designs created by students; Beetroot, the design group that created all the promotional material, came up with the design of the third T-shirt.

Step 2: Media Invites

Beetroot came up with the idea of covering both the invites and the T-shirts in bubble wraps, as if to protect them – the same type of protection that we seek to offer to human rights. All Media and VIP invites were handmade and bubble wrap was applied to them.

Notice the letter T being in red on the invitation? It represents the T-shirt concept of the project.

Step 3: Packaging and in-store display

The t-shirts on sale were placed inside the same packaging that super markets use in order to protect food. Masoutis, a chain of super markets, were kind enough to provide the packaging for free.

Since the t-shirts were placed in food packages, I thought of contacting the PR department at Smeg and asking them if we could sell some of the T-shirts inside their amazing refrigerators. They did not have to think twice about helping us.

For the interior (and part of the exterior), I asked 2nd Floor, an architectural showroom with fantastic items (and brands such as Magis, Arper and Vitra), to provide us with some design furniture to add to the store.

Step 4: The windows

Step 5: Preparations for the launching event

Since the launching party took place in spring, I wanted to transform the exterior of the store and make it look like a terrace or a roof garden. The specialists for this job were none other than Vitaverde, a company that does an amazing job in landscape design.

They happily accepted our offer to be partners in the project, and they provided their valuable input and expertise in order to totally transform the exterior of Hionidis store.

Of course, all the designs of the Akto College students, were put on display, in order for them to showcase all their ideas and talents.

And the launching party…

Cocktail Bartender Agency provided all the cocktails, with their stylish bartenders and decorative stands and glasses.

THE AWARD

Beetroot Design Group won an award for the art direction of the whole event, which made us all really proud!

Twin brothers Dean & Dan are inarguably one of the fashion industry’s hottest names. We’ve spent, exclusively, a whole day with them and they showed us their favorite hot spots in the Italian capital city of design.

Text: Haris Stavridis
Photos: Alex Giacomelli

12.50

He’s a star and it seems that he can’t get enough publicity. You can easily tell, since his first action is to lick the camera. Ciro, a genuine Neapolitan, is the beloved dog of Dean, and by hanging around with his Hermes lead being all friendly and cool to the photographer, you just feel that he is used to being the center of everyone’s attention.

We’re about to have lunch in Tagurio Trattoria, one of the twins’ favorite spots, situated near their office. It has nothing to do with a cosmic hangout. “We come here quite often because the food is great. Everything is homemade and they really love us – they even let us smoke in here!” says Dean, who furtively has a cigarette before Dan arrives in his convertible Mercedes jeep. They order various traditional dishes, have champagne (with the cork ending in between Ciro’s teeth), and at some point Neil Barrett enters, who’s also a regular there.

“We too want to open a restaurant,” confides Dan, “and I have an idea that no one has ever thought of yet.” Before he gets into more details, his brother nudges him saying “You’ll see it when it’s done.” I was THAT close!!

14.20

Walking around the market with Ciro. “We adore walking and the truth is we do miss it a bit here in Milan.” The same way they miss the woods of Canada, which is why their perfume is called “Wood” – according to them, it is a return to their roots. They want the perfume to be perennial, evoking a day in the forest, and of course “HE WOOD” written on the bottle is a pun… and so is “SHE WOOD,” their female version.

15.46

We stop at Kiehl’s, one of their favorite cosmetics companies. They love its travel size products, the body scrubs, the shave creams and the – according to them – the must have hair products. “Quite soon we will of course have our own cosmetic products,” they add. It’s easy to guess then that their collaboration with MAC cosmetics is a first step towards that. They also hang around Corso Como 10, because it’s near Dean’s house, plus “one is allowed to smoke there as well,” as they giggle. They also mention their future cooperation with American Express, the customers of which will enjoy special privileges. Ready for D2 shopping!

16.18

The grey-haired antique owner is very likeable and the objects around the shop are really beautiful. Amongst others, a giraffe and an imposing portrait of Andy Warhol in a golden frame. “The owner travels all over the world and finds the finest things. We dig around and come up with ideas for our collections…”

17.03

Coffee time at the Chocolate, which they find “very cute.” They order a refreshing cocktail with yogurt, honey and cinnamon. They talk about vacations, their effort to buy a house in Mykonos (they haven’t succeeded yet) and the dream to buy an island and transform it into a spectacular a la Dsquared world, along with a boutique hotel “and stay there forever,” says Dan.

18.25

The metallic logo is in perfect contrast with the dominant wood. Until recently, there was a keyhole that would “urge” a curious passerby into looking through and observing the first flagship store of Dsquared in the world. Now it is well open and quite successful! “We ourselves spent a lot of time looking for the right place,” they comment on their attempt. “Russia is a big market and so is Italy.”

19.49

Aperitivo (aperitif) in Nobu, a perfect place to go after work and when they’re feeling sociable (which is almost always). “It is a place to have evening fun”, they say, while they also strongly recommend lounge-y Lotus for its great cocktails and food. In general, the Milanese, usually go for early drinks while almost all bars have excellent finger food to accompany the drinks.

22.05

Bulgari’s lush garden is simply magical. Right in the heart of the city, it is a never-known-before oasis of tranquility and a high class design. “A while ago, we even discovered a magnificent private garden a bit further back,” they mention while recommending flavored Martinis. “Speaking about private areas, there is also a great place in a cellar, that few are aware of and it will remain private. They serve you and then they leave you alone with your company in a fantastic place where the waiter only comes if you ring a bell. It’s perfect for seductions,” thus revealing, with hardly any details, that Milan has one more well-hidden spot for celebrities.

00.14

The famous Chandelier restaurant with its “wonderful, theatrical in atmosphere and decoration monthly parties” (which they say are unique and take you back to a long gone Milan) is one of their favorite nightspots. They complain that the city isn’t as it used to be, when every night a party would take place; also they admit being fans of house music. “The only day we can go out till late is Saturday, since we hate having to wake up early next morning.” Their favorite place for clubbing is the legendary Plastic club, which remains alternative with various kinds of people that always have one thing in common: they know how to party!

04.20

The night should end with a bite and the modern classic 24-hour bakery Princi is the ideal place to go. When looking at it, it doesn’t resemble a bakery at all; however with tasty Mediterranean specialties and much else to offer, it is an ode to the art of flour. “Full of cute faces and with an incredible decoration,” they stress while all of Milan’s “night owls” looking for carbohydrate recharging march into the bakery.

Originally published in L’Officiel Greece. Article has been edited to be up to date.

Four designers share their hot spots in Milan for Vogue Greece.

I chose to live in Milan as it made my life easier. I used to spend 5 days a week here and go back to England for the weekend, but after a while it all became a little too much. The nicest thing about Milan is that nobody knows you. Most of the time I can hang out and chill, without being recognized, which is ideal. Of course, going to a club or a trendy bar or restaurant is a different matter. People recognize you, talk about you as if you are not there, or think that because they know who you are, you are their friend. Italian friendly can be miss-construed as stalking, and on occasion I have had to be rescued.

For breakfast, La Veranda at the four seasons hotel is just the perfect place. Being virtually British, insomuch that I was born there, breakfast is for me a ritual. When I have the time I like to relax with newspapers, fresh coffee and juices and toast – my favorite thing. Of course, a great full English is always available, and once in a blue moon is a wonderful treat. The other great thing is that because they are so used to having Russian clients, they always bring a little stool so that ladies don’t have to put their handbags (and I’m talking Hermes Kelly’s and Birkin’s in crocodile of course!) on the floor. How very chic and very pleasurable, but take your time, it’s well worth it.

In any city there are good points and bad points. Milan has great places to shop for food, such as Campagnoli on corso Vercelli, where I buy fresh Sicilian cheese and cranberry juice (which you can’t find anywhere else here), and Peck- via Spadari 9, which is possibly the best Deli in the world. Also, one cannot miss Cova. It is to Milan what La Duree is to Paris. It is the quintessential and the only bar in the fashion quadrangle that is Montenapoleone, Spiga, Sant’Andrea and Gesu. This is the fashion equivalent of an oasis, a place where everyone comes for coffee and pastries, or just to chat and people watch. Coffee is great and the tea is served just like it is in Blighty, and that’s saying something. Just one thing however: due to its clientele, cameras are banned!

In regards to eating out, I have two favorites. ‘La Picccola Cucina ‘ is the first one: a simple non-descript doorway best describes the gateway to this tiny gastronomic paradise, which has only six tables, and is incredibly Spartan. When my acquaintance arrived, we were duly seated and offered a prosecco whilst we perused the menu, perhaps the most inviting and mouth-watering guide to Italy and all of her regions. From a Sicilian pasta con sardi, through the finest Milanese that simply melted in your mouth, everything was sheer perfection: the service, the presentation and taste sensation, and the selection of wines. I had the pleasure to meet the chef afterwards, for a chat and a cognac. A young man with an amazing repertoire of regional Italian cuisine, thanks to the nobleman who employed him for many years to re-create his favorite dishes. This is possibly one of Milan’s best-kept secrets, and a truly unforgettable experience.

The second one is Casa Lucia, which I discovered on the way to the gym. It had literally just opened and looked like a New York restaurant. I popped my head through the door and asked if I could bring my dog Bruno. They said they thought it would be O.K. and I have been a regular ever since. The food is Tuscan with a twist, as the Maitre-D, Riccardo, worked in the states for a while, so he tends to import his meat and shellfish and some of his recipes. The other great thing is that their kitchen is open until 1 a.m., which is a godsend for Milan – a city where kitchens stop serving after 10 p.m.

Italy being a country of art lovers also means that Milan has great bookstores. Once a week I tend to roam the city for books, art and photography mainly, as I buy English reading books over the Internet. Corso Como 10 has a great book selection, as does the art bookstore at the Triennale – via Alemagna 6, a great place for brunch on Sundays.

Now, I should also mention that I am a shopaholic, and when not working love to leave money at Maison Martin Margiela on via della Spiga and Balenciaga on via Santo Spirito – both have great low key clothing which I love (I hate logos). Anaconda is a little treasure trove of a jewelry shop, where the emphasis is on the exquisite. Here the emphasis is on the modern with a nod to the past. The owner, Monica Rossi, specializes in small pieces of art, and has a natural flair for the unusual, but elegance and luxury prevail. Gold is normally rose colored and sandblasted, diamonds come in every color under the sun, and these she mixes with porcelain silk, antique 17th century French reliquaries and even minute roman mosaics. The result is quite simply stunning, and everyone I have ever taken there has literally walked out with something unique. Prices are high, but things are a one off and that is what makes Anaconda so special.

Milan is a great working city, but I have my hood which is away from the hustle and bustle, and which has a park nearby where I take my bull terrier Bruno for fun, frolics and of course his toiletry needs. We tend to stop for coffee at the Tai bar in via Guido D’arrezzo, where I buy my preferred brand of cigarettes (they order them especially for me) and Bruno gets attention and treats. The doggy parlor is just around the corner, much to his dismay, as like most dogs he hates shampoo.

As for nightlife, I tend to be low key in Milan. I do fashion parties when I have to but like to keep myself to myself. I think it’s better than being at the opening of an envelope as they say in England, and I think that my work should speak for me rather than me having to bore people stupid. One of the best places to go out is La Nuova Idea. I first went there many years ago, and I was literally gob-smacked. It was so surreal and bizarre that it felt like I was dreaming or in some weird parallel reality. Imagine la cage aux folles mixed with some uber club that plays cheap club music to a crowd that was even more absurd and you get an idea. There are two main floors: one has an orchestra playing classical versions of Jennifer Lopez tracks, whilst couples (mainly gay or lesbian, with many being well into their seventies) waltz, cha-cha, rumba and bossa-nova their hearts away. Everyone is ecstatic and flamboyantly dressed, and it looks amazing. You also have sofas and tables and people pay their respects to the various reigning dignitaries, of which there are many. More queens that you can shake a stick at! In the other room it’s club music playing, and the crowd is mixed. Gay, straight, gangster, hooker, transvestite etc – the scene is fun and well worth a look. I have to say, it is one of the best things about Milan. You don’t even get this in New York.

How do you define style?

Style is something you’ve got inside. You can appear elegant and stylish even with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt, because everything comes from your education and how you behave.

Do you have any rules when it comes to the way you dress? If yes, what are they?

A morning suit should never be black!
Color is acceptable for shirt and or ties.
Black shoes should never be worn with a brown suit.
It is a must to wear a tie with a suit.
Every gentleman must own a blue blazer and grey pants (you can play easily with a fancy shirt, with or without ties, for the informal moment; with a shirt with classic ties in any formal occasion….It’s a jolly!).
Formal shoes should always be worn with socks  (I wear socks even with boat shoes).
A tie’s knot should never be too big or wide.
For an evening suit, plain blue or charcoal grey with a white shirt (in this case I love to wear colorful ties).
Always wear a tuxedo when there is a black tie code.

What are your favorite fabrics?

For knitwear: silk cashmere.  For coat and jacket: cashmere in winter and superlight wool in summer.  For tie:  shining silk.

Are there any combinations that you you do not feel comfortable in trying?

A sleeveless shirt with a jacket.

If there is one article of clothing that a man needs to pay close attention to, it has to be…

Let’s summarize saying that the main rule is “never be excessive”: from tip to toe, the whole should be harmonic related to the moment of the day.

If we could generalize it,  which city has the best-dressed men?

I think nowadays it’s difficult to generalize because you can find “the best” in different places and countries. We live in a world of globetrotters.

What is the first thing you notice on a man?

A part of the total look which represents the first impact: accessories. They are the most important things. Above all, shoes (in terms of chromatic choice) and ties (for the sense of taste on choosing them).

Would you say that you are conservative or bold?

Let’s say both, in different percentages. I am conservative but I could be bold in some details.

One garment / accessory that you can never have enough of?

Ties.

A man should always look like…

A man.

How involved are you in the design process of a collection? Obviously, you have the final word in everything, but up to which level do you roll up your sleeves and get work done?

Many of the items available at our stores were at first conceived to answer the specific needs of a customer (or group thereof), friend, or even our own. Think about the Horsey®, a technical garment especially designed for the Italian riders at the 1992 Olympic Games in Barcelona, also approved by the FISE (Italian Federation of Equestrian Sports). Every detail has been considered to satisfy the specific needs of a rider. Or the Icer, originally designed for winter sports and chosen by the Rossignol Racing Team for the 2000 Alpine Skiing World Cup. Barrage was instead expressly designed for the riders of the Italian team at the 2004 Olympic Games in Athens. Although such iconic pieces were developed in collaboration with Loro Piana sports teams, or in order to respond to the specific requirements of outdoor sports, their versatility has made them exceptional all-purpose garments for the city, leisure and travel. All Loro Piana products are created on the basis of the search for authentic quality, and translate our values into fabrics and garments that reflect a profound knowledge of the final customer and his/her lifestyle.

Please describe a typical day in your lives.

That is a difficult question. If we are not travelling the world (Peru for Vicuna, Australia and New Zealand for merinos, Mongolia for cashmere and baby cashmere) in search of the best raw materials, or visiting one of our subsidiaries all over the world, usual working hours are mainly spent in our offices in Milan, as well as at the HQs.

Our leisure time is instead 100% devoted to our families and friends, and to the outdoor sports. (Sergio Loro Piana was a rider and now loves cruising on his boat, Out of The Blue, as well as driving helicopters; Pier Luigi Loro Piana likes skiing. He also owns a boat, My Song, which competes in many regattas around the world, while also serves as the family sailing boat).

Do you ever feel the need for Loro Piana to get more “modern” or “fashionable”?

For six generations, we have been working with the best raw materials available on Earth. We are always trying to find new ways to get the utmost quality and timeless elegance for fabrics and garments that can last more than a lifetime. Therefore, we see no reason to enter the fashion arena, as we have never followed trends and fads, and hopefully we never will. Our customers themselves are much more sensitive to quality and good taste rather than fashion. Modernity, on the other hand, is expressed in the continual efforts of our R&D as well as in the constantly updated answers to our customers’ needs.

Would you be open to one off collaborations with designers for a specific project?

Our brand is very peculiar, as you can imagine, as it has built its reputation over decades of searching for the best raw materials and on the refusal to compromise on quality in all its aspects (materials, processes, aesthetics). That is why we are not planning on doing co-branding, or working with designers (ours is a team of 60 people, all of them focused on answering the needs of our customers).

What is your business motto?

Respect the past while always improving…

How do you make decisions? Is there a certain way in which you distribute the company’s responsibilities among you and your brother?

As brothers leading the same company, we have a long term vision as well as a common strategy, in which we both work as co-CEOs, resulting in our day-by-day mutual commitment to operational tasks. Family and brotherhood are among our strongest principles. At the same time, we decided to alternate Chairmanship (the legal representation of the company) every 3 years, in order to formally communicate our relevance and our potentially interchangeable role at the helm of the company.

As entrepreneurs dealing with luxury, do you see the world economy recovering soon? What are your predictions? Which markets do you see as more promising?

The financial crisis, like all cycles, is bound to come to an end and I believe that it is already in sight. In fact, according to the latest marketing and financial analysis of luxury consumers’ purchasing and spending, the affluent consumer market is beginning to emerge from the recession. Of course things have changed substantially in the meantime. During the recession, the affluent consumers took time off from shopping to reassess their priorities and re-evaluate their spending. This process has resulted in changes in the manner in which they shop and what they value in the luxury brands they purchase. To us, the more promising markets are still those where luxury (meaning quality) are well received and understood, i.e. Europe, the U.S. and Japan.

However, promising countries are at the same time the typical emerging ones forming the BRIC. Whenever we see that we have an interesting customer basis, and the right location becomes available, we open a store (we have stores in Russia, UAE, Ukraine, Turkey, Qatar, Kuwait, and China of course). We also want to keep our brand exclusive. Our idea is not to plaster the world with our stores: new doors are the result of a careful planning.

Who would you say is the Loro Piana man or woman? What sort of person makes up your customer base?

They are high profile men and women who are sensitive to elegance and quality and not easily influenced by fashion trends. Therefore, they are constantly searching for timeless quality. They travel very often and have a very active life, requesting reliable and functional products.

These days in Europe “value for money” is becoming quite a big issue. How can someone manage this in terms of fashion? Are quality clothes an investment?

These days, consumers are more careful about unnecessary excessive spending, therefore willing to spend only for those products that keep their promise of quality (and respect for nature). Their attitude will move from showing off to the more discreet and low profile.

We will therefore stick to our values and pursuit of the best, looking for quality and durability. Surveys prove that post-recession luxury consumers will now expect the luxury brands they patronize to deliver on even higher expectations of quality than before, with an adamant demand that the value of their purchase will be in line with the price. In one word, quality clothes that last through time are for sure an investment.

What is the best business advice you have been given?

Our father was the greatest supporter of quality: he taught us the meaning of looking for the best.

How do you feel about companies such as J.Crew that offer cashmere products at lower prices? What are the differences between theirs a high end product like yours?

As for wines, there is cashmere and cashmere; looking for the best (and very often the scarcest) means selecting the rarest and finest fleece directly from the country of origin, thanks to a time-honored relationship with the local players. I will use a metaphor: our cashmere is the Chateau d’Yquem of the Sauternes, i.e. the best of the best in terms of quality at all levels. You must remember that Loro Piana as a company is very vertical: from hands-on access to raw materials, to the whole structure of DOS worldwide, and the after-sale personalized service. We can control every step of the value chain.

Thanks to the most updated technologies, our fibers are carefully and extensively controlled to reach the highest levels of fineness and quality (fibers are magnified up to 34,000 times in order to ensure purity and proper standards of thickness, fineness and length; some 450 readings are taken for every batch and only if a batch passes inspection will it go on for further checks). Our luxury goods are 100% made in Italy, which means they are carefully crafted and meticulously checked at all levels by expert hands and eyes in our Italian mills.

You are considered pioneers in luxurious fabrics. Which products/fabrics make you most proud?

At present, Loro Piana Baby Cashmere® for sure. It comes from the very first and totally harmless combing of the Hyrcus goat kids, taking place when the animals are between three and twelve months old. After years of gentle persuasion, we have finally managed to convince the nomadic Chinese and Mongolian suppliers of “adult cashmere” to separate the extremely fine fibers gathered from this first combing, in order to obtain the unmatchable hand which comes out of this unique under-fleece. Limited by definition, Loro Piana Baby Cashmere® matches our company’s exceptional standards; fine, soft and obtained from a special process, it is a discreet and never obvious fiber.

You contributed to saving the Vicuña population in Peru and you also managed to set a fine example in conserving a fragile eco–system by collaborating with the Peruvian government. Please tell us a little bit more about this project. How did you initiate it and are you happy with the results so far?

Vicuña, the most precious and finest natural fiber, is a treasured project at Loro Piana. The precious animal was under the risk of extinction (and protected by the endangered species code CITES) when we got involved in its reintroduction on the world market with an agreement with the Peruvian government. In 2008 Loro Piana acquired a property of more than 2,000 hectares to be converted into a private reserve. It is still a start-up project, a challenging one, but we are very proud of it.We can also say we are happy about this decision so far, even if it is a bit too early to make previsions.

How worried are you regarding  natural resources? Do you believe that fashion companies can and should play a role in preserving raw materials?

We are investing in research and development of alternative solutions that respect the environment and our heritage. Using the natural resources sensibly and giving promises that you can keep to your customers is vital. The primary responsibility for the luxury market, considering the current environment, is to deliver through the brand experience that our demanding (and ethical) consumers expect, so definitely yes, companies play a great role in this process.

Is there such a thing as an ethical/sustainable consumerism?

For sure there is. The new disciplines are a greater awareness for the environment and spending with sense, investing in products that fulfill a promise of quality and durability, that are sustainable and here to last. As people become more calculating and careful with their spending, luxury is defined as what it does for them personally across a wide range of benefits that remain. Consumers will be more careful about unnecessary and excessive spending, and more aware of the environment.

As globetrotters, which is, for you, the best hotel and best restaurant in the world? What has been the best gourmet experience you have lived so far?

It would not be fair to name just one (honestly, the Capri Palace in Anacapri, Naples is among our top ten; the Plaza Athenee in Paris is a second home, same for the Claridge’s in London). Each and every trip potentially hides the best gourmet experience, be it in a 3-star Michelin restaurant or in a gheer tent in Mongolia. It all depends on your ability to face different cultures with inner curiosity.

Which city/location has a special place in your hearts? Why?

The perfect city does not exist. We love many for different reasons: Paris, NYC and, of course, Rome and Milan. We also adore Greece and its remote islands, as we know its landscapes as passionate sailors. We love to travel;  we are always on the move (but we also like to get back home to Borgosesia to our families).

How do you define luxury?

True quality without compromise.

What are your plans for the future? How do you see the company expanding?

We will keep serving the most sophisticated and demanding customers worldwide and fulfill their desire of a refined product by sticking to our mission of uncompromising quality and exclusive luxury-wear.

While consolidating the leadership in the premium textile industry, we will also complete the development of our product range and our retail structure in order to grow closer to such customers all over the world.

Originally published in EY magazine. Many thanks to Carola Dolci for her help.

How did growing up in Korea influence your designs?

Growing up in Korea means growing up under the influence of Buddhism, and Confucianism. Self-restraint or moral cultivation is one of the virtues they value the most. Maybe that is the reason why I think beauty is about concealing rather than revealing, and I think of design as a way of harmonizing. The clothes are not to alienate the wearers but to harmonize and balance the wearers with their surroundings.

It is somewhat strange for a woman designer to be fond of designing menswear! Would you like to tell us a little bit more about it?

I think one of the greatest limits for a fashion designer is him- or herself, because it is not that easy to exclude oneself completely in the design. To a certain degree, designers tend to see oneself wearing his/her own design. For me, however, since I’m not the wearer myself, my body is not the limit for my design. This makes it possible for me to go beyond myself in terms of design.

Do you design with a specific man in mind or is it something that changes with the season?

I always have a picture of an ideal man in my head. This imaginary guy may not exist in real life, but he lives in my head. He might adjust his silhouette as time changes, but he still is the one that I used to see in my mind.

What are the virtues that one man must possess?

The meaning of male virtues has drastically changed over time. Modern males do not get praised for their daring and courage like old times. In my opinion, modern males should be warm-hearted and considerate. After all, this is what we need the most from modern males.

What are the differences between Asian (Eastern) and Western men when it comes to style?

The way I see it is the matter of priority between being trendy and being classic. Asian men often tend to pay great deal of attention to the latest trend. They are trendy, so keep up with the latest trends, but they are often weak with the classic styling. Compared to that, Western men’s styles usually have their roots in classic styling, but they are not as strong as Asian men when it comes to the latest trends.

Do you have any fashion tips to share?

The most frequent fashion mistake of men is overstatement, especially among those who are interested in fashion. When someone is too obsessed with showing himself to others, this mistake gets even worse. A tip from me is be yourself, and enjoy fashion as a culture, not to show yourself off.

London, Paris, Milan, or Seoul for fashion and ideas? Why?

In terms of design ideas, I do not limit myself to one city. I get inspiration from any city, anywhere; it does not even have to be so-called fashion centrals. But I get inspiration from men, their bodies, and how the silhouette changes when they move around. What fascinates me is that they are all different individuals, and the way they style themselves, their builds are so unique. It never fails to catch my attention.

You have been called a “seductress.” How do you respond to that?

I find it quite strange. No one has ever called me that, and I don’t see myself as a “seductress.” But I guess, if they say Wooyoungmi is a “seductress,” they are not talking about me, but talking about my brand Wooyoungmi. And if that’s the case, I take that as a compliment, because it means my design seduces and lures men, and they cannot help but love it.

Do you have certain fabrics that you enjoy using? And how experimental are you with them?

My all-time favorite is felt. It carries two conflicting images: hard but warm, at the same time. And this is exactly what I expect from an ideal man. In my opinion, felt is the perfect material for presenting the chicness of the male body. The way I experiment with felt is by creating new silhouette -using felt. It’s commonly known as an old fabric, but by adapting new silhouette, this old fabric can have a thousand different faces.

Who is the Wooyoungmi man?

He is someone who is gentle and delicate but sometimes hard. Just like felt.

When you design do you put yourself in men’s shoes? Or do you prefer to “create” a man that you would like to see walking in the world?

As I mentioned earlier, I always have this image of an ideal man in my head. They tell me that my design makes the wearer looks elegant, and delicate. This is because that is the image I have in my head. An ideal man from a woman’s point of view.

Alessandro Sartori

With the famous Italian house celebrating 100 years of existence, the designer of the younger and modern line “Z Zegna,” is as relevant as ever.

You have been working for Zegna on and off for around fifteen years. Isn’t this a little bit unusual for a designer, when the norm seems to be the opposite? As they say, changing jobs in fashion is like a game of musical chairs but with designers…

I have indeed. I think that it’s easy to stay when you work with a brand that you admire and with a family that you also admire. Each season we are doing something new and fresh for the collection. To keep a brand moving and evolving is the greatest of challenges.

How do you envision the man of Z Zegna? What is he like?

The Z Zegna man is elegant, masculine, contemporary and refined. He likes to play with contrasts and details, and is also confident.

Do you have a certain image in mind when you design or is it something that changes with the mood/season?

There is certain design ethos that always remains, such as a powerful yet elegant tone, sophistication, and a balance of worldly sensitivity and strength.

Has the current financial situation changed your approach in your designs? Do you think there is a need for cheaper, disposable solutions or for expensive garments that stand the test of time?

There is a need for designers to ensure that their products are even better than before and than their competitors. In difficult financial times creativity is at its best, and throughout history it has been the foundation of some of the iconic design movements.

Consumers are after products that will stand the test of time, for products that are different, innovative and unique.

Do you feel that there is any kind of competition between the main line and the Z line?

Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna are two distinct brands with distinct philosophies and designs. Ermenegildo Zegna is timeless design for a sophisticated consumer, while Z Zegna is modern design for a younger consumer.

Working for Zegna and having access to all those fantastic fabrics must be great! How do you manage to narrow down all those options? Also, what are your favorite fabrics and why?

I love innovative new fabrics. My background is in fabrics so I am able to integrate the fabric into the design process from the beginning. I also love angora blends with mohair and silk, which we have used for Edwardian style hats and also for tailoring.

Do you believe in rules when it comes to style? Do you follow any yourself? Are you a follower of trends in your personal or professional life?

Fashion changes while style remains: this is the backbone of how I live my professional and personal life.

It’s important to always be modern, and stand out and to evolve but superficial and ephemeral trends should never be followed.

Its most important that a man always feel comfortable in what he is wearing; a great suit or jacket can change your behavior and posture. Clothes should be worn, and not the other way around.

Zegna has a very strong heritage and – I believe – a very masculine approach. How do you view the homogenization of the sexes that is often suggested by designers?

It’s interesting to see the more androgynous influences that are now being seen within women’s fashion, especially with the inclusion of more tailored styles. In terms of Z Zegna menswear though, we design in a masculine way, designed by men for men. This is our point of unique reference in the marketplace; we are the only true menswear specialists.

What is the first thing that you notice in a man, style-wise?

Attitude! It transcends all clothes, all accessories and all aesthetics. Then it’s the combination of clothes and how they are put together.

Most men love to succumb to the softness of sneakers and sportswear in general. Do you think that this has made men to be less stylish?

I think that men are becoming more stylish, and more image-conscious. The relaxed sports market will always exist, however I don’t see it growing at the moment. Men are returning to formality and professionalism, especially in insecure times. Sportswear exists and is being blended with more formal pieces to create a new approach to dressing that is fresh and new.

Interview originally published in EY magazine

The designer and former creative director at Bally takes a trip back in time…

Which scent takes you back to childhood?

The scent that takes me back to childhood is my mother’s spaghetti and meatballs.  She cooks it forever! Delicious!

What kind of posters did you have in your room as a teenager?

A framed picture of a white Lamborghini Countach… I loved , and still love, fast cars.

Did you have any childhood heroes?

Shaun Cassidy was a favorite…When I was older I loved Gianni Versace.

What where your “fetishes” while being a teen?

Beautiful women in high heels… My mother and her best friends are gorgeous!!

Please describe your first kiss.

During recess in the playground… I kissed a girl named Janellle.

Which was the first album you bought?

Olivia Newton John’s “First one.”  She was in water soaking wet.

When was the first time that you revolted?

Having parties, parties, parties in my family’s house.  I got caught!

Do you have any regrets looking back?

Nothing…I believe that everything, good or bad, helps shape us into the person we are today..or who we will be.

Which was your first book?

“Noisy Nora” – very cute.  I think I still have a copy.  One of my other favorites was “Where the wild things are.”

What irritated you the most when you were a teenager?

I wanted to create my vision!  I wanted to fly with it!  Eventually it happened; I just had to be patient.

How do you describe your style back then?

My style was a bit punk during the late teens… Teens: preppy…then I went to college,  so  punk style: The Smiths, The Cure, etc.  Big hair!!

What kind of memories do you have from your summer holidays?

Always a great time with family and friends.

How did you see the world?

I saw the world as an amazing place…I am still very optimistic that we can make the world even better.

What where your favorite songs from your teenage years?

“Sir Duke” by Stevie Wonder, when I was younger… Then of course all of the music from the 80′s. Michael Jackson, early Madonna, Video Killed The Radio Star. Then I got into punk songs: Siouxsie and the banshees, The Cure, The Smiths, etc.

What kind of student were you?

I was an okay student. Of course I excelled in art and in creative areas…I couldn’t get enough!

How did you imagine yourself as an adult?

I always wanted my work be my passion, and it happened. I love what I do.

What did you perceive as impossible?

I didn’t think anything was impossible… I honestly believe if you want it bad enough, and you  work constantly for that vision, nothing can stop you.  My mantra.

Originally published in Close Up.